Creating a Patina finish can transform any object into a work of art. I have used these methods for over 3 decades with excellent results. My art pieces have sold for thousands of dollars and won awards using the very same techniques that I'm sharing with you here.
Surface Preparation
I begin with surface preparation. Sealing the surface, be it wood, plastic, metal, ceramic, or even vegetables like gourds, can be easily done with shellac. Sometimes I mix my own, but I find it easier to purchase it already mixed.
My work involves multiple layers and color is a big part of the process. I like the Zinsser BIN primer which is alcohol-based and dries fast. The white color gives a perfect background for the other layers of color.
I like to spray finishes, when possible, for speed and lack of brush marks. Shellac bonds well to just about any surface. I apply a couple of coats and sand it smooth between coats with 220 grit sandpaper.
Color & Size Preparation
The next step is to apply some color. I like to use Japan paints because of their rich colors. I thin them with Naphtha, although paint thinner works too. It's just slower drying. I pour it through a paint filter and spray it on. An inexpensive spray gun works fine as long as you add enough solvent to make it flow.
The Japan paints are still porous when dry, so they need to be sealed before applying the oil-based size, which is also known as leaf adhesive. To do so, I apply a layer of oil-based size to seal the surface. I like to pour it through a paint filter first. This will remove any dried flex or resin or dust or anything else that gets in there. Lastly, I use a soft square edge, inexpensive synthetic brush to apply the size. Once the size has dried overnight, I sand it smooth with 320 grit sandpaper or higher.
Adding Metal Leaf
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