The sun has just popped over Thessaloniki's jumbled rooftops but there's already a queue out the door at Bougatsa Bantis. Inside, baker Philippos Bantis is handling the morning rush, bantering with his customers, many of whom he greets by name. It doesn't take long to get through the orders, since they're all for the same thing: bougatsa, the rich, crispy, buttery filo tart that's a breakfast staple in Thessaloniki. Traditionally, it's filled with creamy vanilla custard and dusted with icing sugar, but purists prefer it sketa, with no filling. Some scoff their bougatsa outside the shop, accompanied by chocolate milk or nuclear-strength Greek coffee, but most eat it on their way to work.
There's a reason for Bantis's popularity. Unlike some bakeries in the city, it still makes its filo by hand. Every morning, Philippos and his team roll, knead, stretch and throw their dough, using techniques learned from his grandfather, who founded the shop in 1969.
"Everyone has their favourite shops for bread, cheese, cakes and treats," explains food guide Nana Zygoura, when we meet later that morning near the 15th-century White Tower, a landmark feature of Thessaloniki's waterfront. "I still use the same ones my parents did. Traditions and relationships like that are very important here." Dressed in a silk scarf, white shirt and oversized shades, Nana has spent most of her life in Thessaloniki, and knows the city's food scene better than most.
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Esta historia es de la edición April 2025 de National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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