At the table Sweet dreams are cooked like these
The London Standard|March 06, 2025
Sometimes dreaming seems a rather melancholy thing, to be thinking of another time, another place.
DAVID ELLIS
At the table Sweet dreams are cooked like these

It doesn’t say much for the here and now. Last year Brits spent 16.4 billion minutes — about 31,000 years — on Rightmove, presumably all looking up the same Cornish cottages and crumbling manor houses. Fresh starts. We long for them.

James Chiavarini knows all about fresh starts. He runs Il Portico, a Kensington Italian that’s 58 this year and always busy: generations of monied neighbours treat it as their local, popping in for celebrations — anniversaries, birthdays, divorces — and in times of distress, like when Waitrose is shut or the kids are back from boarding school. In 2021, five doors down, Chiavarini opened a wine bar, Pino. Critics loved it; no one else went. It didn’t make a year. It was reborn as a charity pizza project that couldn't last forever. In late 2023, it began again as La Palombe, a brasserie. “Come in,” he said, so I did. “What did you think?” he said. “I'll ring you,” I said, picking bits of game from my teeth and apologising to my mother for taking her out. And then I manfully avoided Chiavarini’s calls for months.

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