You probably haven’t heard about the place that’s just opened in the old Pizza East site on the corner of Golborne and Portobello Road. No, not Canteen, on the ground floor — that’s old news. And no, not the spot coming from chef George Williams (ex-Dorian, The Bull, River Café) opening in the rafters later this year. The Public House Group (The Hero, The Pelican) have taken over the whole building, and the one that’s most interesting is the one on the second floor. The one that doesn’t exist. The one that’s invite only.
Right at end of last year, The Fat Badger opened. Given Phil Winser, James Gummer and Olivier van Themsche’s track record — Canteen is a joy, earning a rare five-star review from The Standard’s David Ellis — I sensed The Fat Badger would be good. The trio seem to have cracked the bourgeois gastropub formula: big windows, sexy lighting, banging cocktails, homely food, decent staff and prime locations. Easy, right? Except just about everyone else seems to mess it up. But the boys haven’t. The Fat Badger is their best one yet.
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